SVSII Installation 03

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These are all light weight and very thin, just like race fairings.

SVSII Installation 03 - 06 650 & 1000

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Use of all of these parts is a custom installation, some additional cutting or trimming may be required. The exhaust area is one of these places. The stock exhaust is very large and may require some cutting of the lower fairing. Just as you are installing this fairing, there is no way to make one part that can be perfectly adapted to all modifications that may have been done.

Some drilling and trimming may be required.

The SVSII Fairing uses the stock mounting brackets and hardware for the SVS. It also uses all of the other stock components from the SVS, dash, gages, windshield, mirrors and other parts. If you are starting with an SV naked version, the brackets and other parts may be found at your local Suzuki dealer, eBay, or motorcycle salvage yards. The fasteners that attach the upper fairing to the lower fairing are not supplied with the fairing. There are many different types and styles of fasteners ( Dzues, Cam loc, & screws) and it is a matter of personnel choice which you use. These fasteners need to be installed before you continue. It is suggested that you do a complete installation prior to any paint work. There are indicator marks on the upper and lower fairings for these fasteners, three on each side.

First thing, remove the old fairing. The headlights will come off with the fairing, just set it aside for now.

The first part to be installed is the cross brace supplied with the new fairing. fasteners are not supplied with the fairing because there are many different type of fasteners ( Dzues, Cam loc, screws and nuts) and it is a matter of personnel choice which you use. The one show has Jack nuts installed. The cross brace is threaded through the opening in the frame and around the wires and cables inside.

After removing the headlight from the old fairing, remove the 6 10-32 nutclips (shown by arrows) and install them in the new fairing. If you break or loose one, you can get them at most hardware store. You can now install the headlight in the new fairing. If the headlight sticks out too far an one side, you can ad washers as shims on the screws between the headlight mount and the headlight tab to even it out.

This small pin on the side of the frame can be bent up or down to adjust the height. The fairing sides just rest on them.

The small side brackets are installed on both sides of the radiator. They can be rotated to a position that best fits. The side brackets will attach to the lower fairing. The side brackets shown are for the 1000. The side brackets for the 650 are the same except just a little longer. At this point the fairing upper should be installed. The upper dictates the location of the lower. Once in place, the holes for the cross brace that went through the frame can be drilled and fasteners installed.

The hole locations is marked on the bracket (see photo). If the installation is for a 1000 the bracket can be cut off at the dotted line. The bracket can be bent slightly to fit as tight as needed for the type fasteners used.

It is now time to slip the lower on and attach it to the upper fairing. Once in place three holes need to be drilled. One on either side to attach to the side brackets (above left) and one for the rear attachment to the exhaust hanger (above right).

That's it for the basic installation. At this point it is possible to remove the upper and lower independently with out removing the other.

The dash, mirrors, windshield and the rest of the stock parts go back the way they came off.

All installations are different and you still may have some issues you need to deal with because of other components you have used.

The stock turn signals can be used. Just find a spot where you want them and drill the holes and bolt them on. Many people use other types of lights for a custom look (see the gallery photos).

Trimming Tips!

Drilling

When drilling holes in fiberglass, drill slowly. Don't force it, you can crack or break out the hole.

Cutting and Trimming

Fine tooth hacksaw blades or saber saws with carbide grit blades work well. Just remember to take it slow. Hogging your way through a part is the way to crack it.

Sanding

Orbital sanders, Jitter bugs, or other fine sanders work well. It is best not to use anything rougher than 100 grit. NEVER sand away the gel coat, it is a protective layer.

Paint Prep

If you are planning to paint your new parts the most important thing is to lightly sand the shine to an even mat finish. Normal paint preparations are all that's needed for a beautiful finish. DO NOT sand through the white gel coat, it is a protective layer. If flaws or imperfections need to be corrected, body putty or other common body shop fillers and other materials may be used. Always use a good wax and grease remover.

OOPS I messed up!

If you drilled a hole in the wrong place or cut or chipped an edge DON'T PANIC!

Go the tips page for a "how to" on fixing it.

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These are all light weight and very thin, just like race fairings.